Showing posts with label computer. Show all posts
Showing posts with label computer. Show all posts

Wednesday 3 December 2014

Mozilla launched new browser Firefox 34 with default Yahoo search!



Talking about desktop version, Firefox 34 introduces FirefoxHello WebRTC feature. The feature enables users to make and receive calls in Guest Mode. The feature is powered by a Telefonica Company, TokBox.
Another interesting change is the change of default browser, i.e. from “Google” to “Yahoo!”. This is the result of its recent collaboration with the firm. However, the default search engine “Yahoo!” will be limited to North America region as of now. For region such as Belarusian, Kazakh, and Russian locales, the default search engine has been changed to “Yandex!”.
Deafult search engine in Firefox 34
A bunch of new features are:
  • Improved search bar (US English only).
  • Easy theme switching through “Customization” mode.
  • Improved recovery in case of browser crashing.
  • HTTPS usage in Wikipedia search for secure browsing.
  • Fixes in CSS transitions; they now start correctly when started at the same time as changes to display, position, overflow, and similar properties.
  • Implementation of HTTP/2 (draft14) and ALPN.
  • Default Search engine changed to “Yahoo” for North America.
  • Default Search engine changed to “Yandex” for Belarusian, Kazakh, and Russian locales.
  • Several other changes in HTML5 for developers.
Rest other changes can be seen in the Mozilla Release Notes website.
Coming upon to Android, the Firefox 34 introduces browser tab mirroring support for Chromecast, through which users can view the same browser tabs opened on their handsets on to their TVs. Just like desktop version, it also brings with itself the usage of HTTPS for Wikipedia search. Also, some more features like Public key pinning support, a brand new first run experience, and new theme for Firefox browser.
Firefox for Android
The SSlv3 has been disabled for Android too.Having bug fixes for issues faced while playing MP4 videos Android 5.0 Lollipop, it doesn’t pay heed to Firefox Hello chatting feature. The news says that it might arrive in due course of time.
For brief report of various changes, new features, fixes and development option, visit Mozilla Firefox 34.0.5 Release Noteswebsite.For brief report of various changes, new features, fixes and development option, visit Mozilla Firefox 34.0.5 Release Noteswebsite.
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Thursday 27 November 2014

Important laptop Innovations You probably don’t Think About

Five Important laptop Innovations You probably don't Think About
Innovation and technology go hand-in-hand, but what makes the headlines isn’t always what’s important. New processors, video cards and displays are great to geek out about, but there are other, less well-known advancements that have made, or are making, a big impact. What they are, and how they’re changing laptops might surprise you.
PCI Express (PCIe) solid state drives
The solid state drive is arguably the component that has the most impact on whether are modern PC “feels” quick. Even the fastest processor must on data sent from the hard drive, and if the drive is slow, the processor just sits idle. The near-instant access times offered by an SSD eliminate the need to wait.
PCI Express
Early drives were packaged in the common 3.5 inch and 2.5 inch form factors, but a few PC manufacturers have transited to PCIe drives that are about the size of a stick of RAM. These small, slim SSDs decrease the footprint of a laptop’s storage and provide room for a larger battery or better cooling.
Apple’s MacBook Pro 13 with Retina is a great example. Though it’s as thin as most ultrabooks, it offers above-average battery life and a very powerful processor. The use of a PCIe drive deserves some of the credit. The drive is so slim it fits under the MacBook’s trackpad, freeing up volume that older models had to devote to a hard drive bay.
802.11 ac WiFi
Wireless Internet is one of the most transformative technologies to emerge since the turn of the century. Yet for all its convenience, Wi-Fi has been plagued by reliability and bandwidth issues over the years. Even 802.11n, while fine for browsing, sometimes fails to offer the rock-solid stability and fast download speeds of an Ethernet connection.
802.11 ac WiFi
802.11ac, however, may finally make the cord obsolete – for most home users, at least. An 802.11ac laptop, paired with a strong 802.11ac router, can deliver around 200 Mbps of bandwidth in real-world use. That translates to about 25 Mbps per second, which exceeds the bandwidth most service providers offer to residential customers. In other words, a residential customer with an average broadband connection will see 802.11ac deliver transfer speeds that are roughly equivalent to Ethernet.
That means consumers will no longer need Ethernet. And if there’s no need for Ethernet, there’s no need for the port, or the adapter. And if neither of those is required, a computer can be made thinner, smaller, and cheaper. Some systems have already dropped Ethernet in favor of 802.11ac, and we expect more laptops to drop the port in pursuit of an ever-thinner profile.
Powerful BGA Processors
BGA stands for ball grid array, a type of surface mount used to attach a processor to a motherboard. Unlike a socketed processor, BGA models are soldered on and can’t be removed afterwards.
While this eliminates the possibility of upgrading the processor, going the BGA route allows for tighter packaging and improves heat dissipation. These two traits are obviously a boon for a laptop, as they enable a thinner, more compact design. Ditching the socket also provides manufacturers with more mounting options when engineering a new notebook.
Powerful BGA Processors
The production of high-end BGA processors is a relatively new development, however, which began with Intel’s first generation of Intel Core i3 and Core i5 processors. Today, Intel’s i3 and i5 lines are dominated by BGA parts and the BGA mix includes Core i7 processors like the i7-4500U and quad-core i7-4700HQ.
Most people will never see their BGA processor, or even know that their laptop even has one to begin with. Without it though, laptops simply could not be as thin as they are today. Constant demand for light, thin, powerful computers will no doubt make BGA a dominant force even among quad-core processors.
Thin Bezel dispalys
We’ve seen a huge leap in laptop display quality over the last two years. For instance, a modern Ultrabook now packs almost 200 pixels per inch, offers excellent contrast and can render most of the sRGB gamut. However, better quality isn’t the only improvement we’ve seen.
Display bezels have shrunk dramatically, too, and some are now down to a half-inch or less. A slimmer bezel lets engineers down-size the chassis, shaving millimeters off width and depth. This results in a lighter, smaller laptop without sacrificing the size of the display.
Thin Bezel dispalys
Here’s what we mean. The ASUS U30JC, a 13.3 inch laptop that won our Editor’s Choice award in 2010, was 328mm long, 238mm deep and 30mm thick. Meanwhile Dell’s new XPS 13, though its display is the same size, measures 316mm long, 205mm deep and 18mm thick. Shaving millimeters off on all sides cuts weight dramatically, from 4.5 pounds to just under three. We expect that displays will eventually boast bezels no more than an eighth of an inch thick, at which point a 13.3 inch system could be nearly as small as a 12 inch notebook currently is.
Miniaturised Power Adaptors
One overlooked extra many travelers forget to pack is the power adapter. While battery life has shot upward in leaps and bounds in just the past few years, anyone away from home for more than a day is still going need to pack the adapter.
Miniaturised Power Adaptors
Laptop power adapters were once heavy bricks that could weigh as much as a pound. Today, they usually weigh half that (or less) and are often the size of a flip-phone. This has a lot to do with the power requirements of those older systems, which needed more juice and, thus, larger adapters. But there have also been advancements in miniaturization that has made smaller adapters possible.
And there’s more to come. An up-start called Finsix showed off a new type of adapter at CES 2014 that’s nearly as small as a cell phone charger, yet can provide up to 65 watts of juice, making it pocketable. Finsix also showcased a version of its adapter with a USB charger spliced in, which means you’d have to carry just one adapter for your laptop, smartphone and tablet.
Conclusion
There’s an obvious trend here; thinner, lighter, more portable. Not every consumer is a frequent flier (in fact, most laptops never leave home), but smaller systems are often easier to use even if their longest journey takes them between a desktop and a couch.
Put all of these innovations together and a clear pictures forms. Tomorrow’s laptop will be thin, of course, but it will also be narrower in every dimension. More efficient BGA processors, combined with PCIe solid state drives and the larger batteries they make room for, will shoot battery life upward dramatically in time. Ports, killed off by improved wireless connectivity, will let PC makers strengthen their laptops with more rigid unibody builds. And when and if you do travel, you’ll only need to pack a single charger for your phone, tablet and PC.
What do you think of these innovations, and the direction they’re likely to take laptops in? Do you agree with them and look forward to the laptop of tomorrow, or will you die by the Ethernet cord?

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Saturday 15 November 2014

Hackers are using Gmail drafts as command and control to steal data


A technique that General David Petraeus used  to communicate with his lover Paula Broadwell (with whom he was having an illicit affair.), is now become a data-stealing technique for hackers.
Now hackers have learned the same trick. Only instead of a mistress, they’re sharing their love letters with data-stealing malware buried deep on a victim’s computer.
Back in August, Germany’s anti-malware solutions provider G Data Software identified stealthy malware that had gone undetected since 2012.
They dubbed the remote administration tool (RAT) Win32.Trojan.IcoScript.A and remarked that it was particularly nasty due to the way it abused webmail for its command and control (C&C) communications. Although IcoScript was using Yahoo email, G Data predicted that it could just as easily abuse Facebook, LinkedIn or Gmail. And now a variant of that malware is using Gmail drafts that open in invisible Internet Explorer windows and act as the command and control to steal data.
As written on wired .com :
Williamson (a security researcher at Shape) says the new infection is in fact a variant of a remote access trojan (RAT) called Icoscript first found by the German security firm G-Data in August. At the time, G-Data said that Icoscript had been infecting machines since 2012, and that its use of Yahoo Mail emails to obscure its command and control had helped to keep it from being discovered. The switch to Gmail drafts, says Williamson, could make the malware stealthier still.
Thanks in part to that stealth, Shape doesn’t have any sense of just how many computers might be infected with the Icoscript variant they found. But given its data-stealing intent, they believe it’s likely a closely targeted attack rather than a widespread infection.
For victims of the malware, Shape says there’s no easy way to detect its surreptitious data theft without blocking Gmail altogether. The responsibility may instead fall on Google to make its webmail less friendly to automated malware. A Google spokesperson responded to an email from WIRED with only a statement that “our systems actively track malicious and programmatic usage of Gmail and we quickly remove abusive accounts we identify.”
G Data concluded in its write up
The malware abused Microsoft Windows Component Object Model (COM) technology to control Internet Explorer. IE would open in an invisible, or hidden, window and connect to specific websites, enter credentials to access an email account, execute files, check or uncheck checkboxes, press buttons on a webpage, fill in form data on a site, export data and more.
The following were listed as advantages for malware developers to exploit COM, which can control IE, and manipulate the browser that is being used by a legitimate user:
  • The HTTP communication is performed by the user’s iexplore.exe process (not by the malware itself).
  • If the targeted infrastructure uses a proxy (with authentication), the malware can reuse the proxy token stored in the user session. The malware developers don’t have to worry about the proxy configuration on the infected machine.
  • Analysis by reverse engineering is more complicated – there’s no obvious evidence of malicious network behavior or socket usage, etc.
  • The user does not usually notice the additional communication being carried out by the browser – the session is hidden.
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5 Best websites to make money online


 1


  1. Fiverr.com

fiverr

It is an amazing site that provides an interface between people requesting services and people who have the ability to provide them. Signing up is a simple process and is absolutely free of charge. You can also connect through your Facebook account. To receive orders on this site you first need to create your Gig. It is just a term for your quality and service that you wish to provide. It is better if you have some experience but newbies can also join. You can additionally provide any information or your requirements regarding the payment optionally.It also lets you upload your video resume for buyers to refer to. The buyers of services contact you on the basis of your profile formed.

  1. Freelancer.com

Hire Freelancers Find Freelance Jobs Online Freelancer.com


Freelancer is the world’s biggest outsourcing marketplace. It helps you get work projects very easily after joining up and setting up your profile, where you can enlist your experience, expectations, interests and projects done. The entire site works on a bidding system where you place a bid to get a project to work on. The buyers will contact you upon the basis of your bids placed. To obtain Projects matching your expectation you need to get your profiles rating. A profile that has 5 start rating is likely to get more projects. Freelancer also allows you to buy a premium account that definitely adds to your ratings.

  1. Odesk.com

Odesk
Odesk provides you any work that can be done on a computer whether it is short or ongoing. From graphic designing to web development. To get projects on Odesk First you need to set up your account and provide a job post listing your abilities and skills along with experiences. You can also provide your work history, education, portfolios, work samples, reviews, language and communication skills.
The payment options provided by Odesk are also very simple and painless with absolutely no paperwork required. They provide three modes of payment namely via credit card, paypal and bank account. The payment is made once the work begins and the site keep 10% of all the transactions made, may it be per hour or per project.

  1. Envato Market

Envato market
Envato’s ecosystem of digital marketplaces helps millions of people around the world get creative and earn online. When you create an account and accept the terms you become a member of their community. You will have an Envato Market account that will allow you to buy and sell items like the ones found on the Envato Marketsites and make other related transactions.
The Envato Market sites are platforms that allow members to buy and sell licenses to use digital items like website themes, production music, motion graphics project files, software code, vectors, images and much, much more. Envato Market facilitates transactions between the site holders, buyers and authors via a payment method.

  1. Google Adsense

Google adsense

It is an innovative method that lets you make dollars very easily. But to use this you must have your own website/blog or youtube account where you can let the ads be posted. You host your website and leave the spaces on the web pages where you want the ads to be displayed. The advertisers all around the globe makes bids to place their ads on your site in real time auction. The highest bidder gets to put up their advertisement on your site and google adsense handles the process of billing and payment from the bidders to you. They also manage the network traffic for the ads placed on your site. Google adsense is now the biggest advertiser/publisher network on the internet and it is used by technotification as well.

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Friday 12 September 2014

Simple trick to refresh your RAM when your computer is slowing down


Our computer could be sometimes slowing down the moment after a few heavy applications usage like Adobe Photoshop, Corel Draw, Etc.

This is normally happened because the old data of these applications are still kept in the RAM. Mostly we just have to restart the computer just to make RAM refreshed and clean again. Of course this is not the simple way to clean your RAM.

Have a try of this one before restarting your computer everytime the computer runs slow :

1. Right click with your mouse on the desktop and choose : new shortcut.

2. Type :

%windir%\system32\rundll32.exe advapi32.dll,ProcessIdleTasks
in the next column.

3. Click Next.

4. If you pass the renaming of this shortcut, it will be shown as rundll32.exe automatically.

5. Click Finish.

This is the similar process done by any registry booster application but much simpler and of course without a cost.

So anytime the load in your computer seems to get heavier, double click this shortcut to refresh your RAM.

Photo: Simple trick to refresh your RAM when your computer is slowing down

Our computer could be sometimes slowing down the moment after a few heavy applications usage like Adobe Photoshop, Corel Draw, Etc.

This is normally happened because the old data of these applications are still kept in the RAM. Mostly we just have to restart the computer just to make RAM refreshed and clean again. Of course this is not the simple way to clean your RAM.

Have a try of this one before restarting your computer everytime the computer runs slow :

1. Right click with your mouse on the desktop and choose : new shortcut.

2. Type :

%windir%\system32\rundll32.exe advapi32.dll,ProcessIdleTasks
in the next column.

3. Click Next.

4. If you pass the renaming of this shortcut, it will be shown as  rundll32.exe automatically.

5. Click Finish.

This is the similar process done by any registry booster application but much simpler and of course without a cost.

So anytime the load in your computer seems to get heavier, double click this shortcut to refresh your RAM.


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Disable USB ports on Windows PC via Registry


With this trick, you can disable access to your USB(Universal Serial Bus) ports on your Windows based PC to prevent people from taking out data without permission or spreading viruses through the use of USB (pen and flash) drives.

To use this trick to disable USB ports, follow the steps given below:-

Click on Start.
Click on Run. If you cannot find RUN, type it in the search box.
Type "regedit" without quotes. This will launch the Registry Editor.
Navigate to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\usbstor.
In the work area, double click on Start.
In the Value Data box, enter 4.
Click on OK.
Close Registry Editor and refresh your desktop.
To re-enable access to your USB ports, enter 3 in the Value Data box in Step 6.

Try it yourself to make your PC invulnerable from data theft and malware which spread through USB ports. This works on Windows XP, Windows Vista, Windows 7 and Windows 8.

Note: This trick also disables access to your USB connected peripheral devices. So, do not use it if you have USB connected keyboard and mouse.

These tricks work on Windows 8.1, Windows 8, Windows 7, Windows Vista and Windows XP.

Photo: Disable USB ports on Windows PC via Registry

With this trick, you can disable access to your USB(Universal Serial Bus) ports on your Windows based PC to prevent people from taking out data without permission or spreading viruses through the use of USB (pen and flash) drives. 

To use this trick to disable USB ports, follow the steps given below:-

Click on Start.
Click on Run. If you cannot find RUN, type it in the search box.
Type "regedit" without quotes. This will launch the Registry Editor.
Navigate to  HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\usbstor.
In the work area, double click on Start.
In the Value Data box, enter 4.
Click on OK.
Close Registry Editor and refresh your desktop.
To re-enable access to your USB ports, enter 3 in the Value Data box in Step 6.

Try it yourself to make your PC invulnerable from data theft and malware which spread through USB ports. This works on Windows XP, Windows Vista, Windows 7 and Windows 8.

Note: This trick also disables access to your USB connected peripheral devices. So, do not use it if you have USB connected keyboard and mouse.

These tricks work on Windows 8.1, Windows 8, Windows 7, Windows Vista and Windows XP.
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Monday 18 August 2014

EFFECTS OF DUST & DIRT IN PC'S


 Be proactive! Take personal computer maintenance seriously and your computer will last longer.

Dust is truly an enemy of any PC, may it be a desktop, laptop, or netbook, If the dust has a way in it can do damage. D...ust acts like a blanket to warm your computers sensitive electronics. Over time the build up of dust can effect the reliability and most definitely shorten the life expectancy of the device. Protect your investment by keeping it clean and free of dust buildup.

PC performance issues due to dust
Components covered in dust run much hotter than they were designed to, and the computers central processing unit (CPU) could start to throttle its performance. Throttling is a method used to prevent the CPU from over heating, the computers performance drops significantly for no apparent reason. The computer becomes slow and unresponsive, similar to virus or malware activity. Some CPU's don't utilize throttling and simply shut off, or Windows crashes displaying a blue screen once they begin to overheat.

"COMPUTER NEEDS TO BE DUSTED AT LEAST ONCE EVERY 3 MONTHS."

Dirty fans are loud
Computers with really dirty fans are louder than normal due to the fans having to run at higher speeds in order to cool the components. If your computer has gotten louder over time it is not because it is getting older, it is most likely due to dust and dirt build up. If a computer is throttling or crashing it needs to be investigated. With desktops it is easy just open the case and take a look inside. Laptops are a bit harder and may need to be disassembled to thoroughly clean them. Either way just ignoring the warning signs can possibly lead to a complete system failure. A quick look inside can mean the difference between simply cleaning the PC, or possibly having to buy new parts, or even buying a new computer.

Just like a car over heating a PC will fire up and run again once it has had time to cool. However, once you turn it back on the cycle starts over again. Doing this over and over could potentially ruin the computer causing damage due to excessive heat. Not only potentially ruining the computer, but gradually corrupting the file system which may warrant reloading the operating system to repair the damage.

Fans and heatsinks

Fans are the primary cooling system in most computers. They bring cool air into the case and push warm air out. They also blow air directly onto heatsinks which cool components like the central processing unit (CPU). Heatsinks are finned metal blocks that dissipate the heat generated by the chip they are seated to. The fins allow air to flow through them transferring the heat into the case which is blown out by a case fan. If any of these fans fail the system can become much hotter than it was intended to get. A computer with failed fans may work all winter long and then start to fail badly during summer months.

A plugged heatsink is worthless for cooling, it will get hotter and hotter with the component it is trying to cool. A sign of this happening is the computer becomes much louder as the fan has to spin faster and faster to perform normal duties. Don't ignore a louder than normal computer.

Sometimes fans go quiet as well. If your computer is suddenly quiet that would be a good time to take a look inside. The video card below went with a bang. Apparently a very loud bang that was described like a fire cracker. However, the end user needed the computer so they keep using it until it would freeze or crash. Repeating the process over and over again. The video card got hot enough to change the color of the board from red to brown in spots and by using it the end user risked fire and ruining the computer.

Removing the dust

Fans can get so clogged with dust that they can be rendered ineffective. Fans are constantly forcing dust onto the heatsinks, eventually this build up can stop the fan from spinning at all. It is important to open you computer case and dust the inside once every six months for dusty environments, once a year for normal amounts of dust. People who have indoor pets and or are smokers need to dust more often.

One important recommendation is to not blow air directly into an open or closed DVD, CD-ROM, or Blu-ray drive to prevent fouling the laser with dust.

Before you begin

Before you begin cleaning your PC pcmd just wants you to know If you choose to use anything to dust your computer pcmd takes no responsibility if things go wrong. The tips outlined are for information only and do not mean that anyone can or should dust their own PC.

Before dusting the inside of your PC unplug the power cord and all peripherals. Never touch any internal components without properly grounding yourself. One way to do this is to touch a metal part of the case before you begin. The best way to be sure you are grounded is to use a grounding strap and mat. Do not proceed with dusting your own computer if you are not comfortable with doing mechanical things yourself or you in any way question what you are doing.

Computers need to be cleaned on a regular basis and if you have more than one it can take quite a few cans of compressed air to effectively clean them. Consider buying a blower made specifically for computers. I would not recommend an air compressor unless you have a properly maintained water trap, and a working pressure regulator. As always use caution and proper settings.

Photo: EFFECTS OF DUST & DIRT 

Be proactive! Take personal computer maintenance seriously and your computer will last longer.

Dust is truly an enemy of any PC, may it be a desktop, laptop, or netbook, If the dust has a way in it can do damage. Dust acts like a blanket to warm your computers sensitive electronics. Over time the build up of dust can effect the reliability and most definitely shorten the life expectancy of the device. Protect your investment by keeping it clean and free of dust buildup.

PC performance issues due to dust
Components covered in dust run much hotter than they were designed to, and the computers central processing unit (CPU) could start to throttle its performance. Throttling is a method used to prevent the CPU from over heating, the computers performance drops significantly for no apparent reason. The computer becomes slow and unresponsive, similar to virus or malware activity. Some CPU's don't utilize throttling and simply shut off, or Windows crashes displaying a blue screen once they begin to overheat.

"COMPUTER NEEDS TO BE DUSTED AT LEAST ONCE EVERY 3 MONTHS."

Dirty fans are loud
Computers with really dirty fans are louder than normal due to the fans having to run at higher speeds in order to cool the components. If your computer has gotten louder over time it is not because it is getting older, it is most likely due to dust and dirt build up. If a computer is throttling or crashing it needs to be investigated. With desktops it is easy just open the case and take a look inside. Laptops are a bit harder and may need to be disassembled to thoroughly clean them. Either way just ignoring the warning signs can possibly lead to a complete system failure. A quick look inside can mean the difference between simply cleaning the PC, or possibly having to buy new parts, or even buying a new computer.

Just like a car over heating a PC will fire up and run again once it has had time to cool. However, once you turn it back on the cycle starts over again. Doing this over and over could potentially ruin the computer causing damage due to excessive heat. Not only potentially ruining the computer, but gradually corrupting the file system which may warrant reloading the operating system to repair the damage.

Fans and heatsinks

Fans are the primary cooling system in most computers. They bring cool air into the case and push warm air out. They also blow air directly onto heatsinks which cool components like the central processing unit (CPU). Heatsinks are finned metal blocks that dissipate the heat generated by the chip they are seated to. The fins allow air to flow through them transferring the heat into the case which is blown out by a case fan. If any of these fans fail the system can become much hotter than it was intended to get. A computer with failed fans may work all winter long and then start to fail badly during summer months.

A plugged heatsink is worthless for cooling, it will get hotter and hotter with the component it is trying to cool. A sign of this happening is the computer becomes much louder as the fan has to spin faster and faster to perform normal duties. Don't ignore a louder than normal computer.

Sometimes fans go quiet as well. If your computer is suddenly quiet that would be a good time to take a look inside. The video card below went with a bang. Apparently a very loud bang that was described like a fire cracker. However, the end user needed the computer so they keep using it until it would freeze or crash. Repeating the process over and over again. The video card got hot enough to change the color of the board from red to brown in spots and by using it the end user risked fire and ruining the computer.

Removing the dust

Fans can get so clogged with dust that they can be rendered ineffective. Fans are constantly forcing dust onto the heatsinks, eventually this build up can stop the fan from spinning at all. It is important to open you computer case and dust the inside once every six months for dusty environments, once a year for normal amounts of dust. People who have indoor pets and or are smokers need to dust more often.

One important recommendation is to not blow air directly into an open or closed DVD, CD-ROM, or Blu-ray drive to prevent fouling the laser with dust.

Before you begin

Before you begin cleaning your PC pcmd just wants you to know If you choose to use anything to dust your computer pcmd takes no responsibility if things go wrong. The tips outlined are for information only and do not mean that anyone can or should dust their own PC.

Before dusting the inside of your PC unplug the power cord and all peripherals. Never touch any internal components without properly grounding yourself. One way to do this is to touch a metal part of the case before you begin. The best way to be sure you are grounded is to use a grounding strap and mat. Do not proceed with dusting your own computer if you are not comfortable with doing mechanical things yourself or you in any way question what you are doing.

Computers need to be cleaned on a regular basis and if you have more than one it can take quite a few cans of compressed air to effectively clean them. Consider buying a blower made specifically for computers. I would not recommend an air compressor unless you have a properly maintained water trap, and a working pressure regulator. As always use caution and proper settings.


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Liquid cooling vs. traditional cooling: What you need to know


 Every computer, from the smallest of home theater PCs to the most hulking of gargantuan gaming rigs, generates heat during operation—heat that can kill your PC's precious intern...als if you're not careful.

While you don't have anything to worry about if you bought your computer from a big-box retailer or straight from a manufacturer like HP, you'll be faced with a potentially crucial decision if you're building (or custom-buying) a fire-breathing, benchmark-eating computer: Should you chill your PC with a traditional air cooling solution or a pricier, yet more efficient liquid-cooling system? That question has many aspects to consider before you can answer it.

Cooling methods explained
The secret to harnessing the cooling power of air lies in fans—lots of fans. Your typical air-cooled PC is packed with case fans, graphics card fans, and a CPU fan or two—positioned atop a big metal heat sink—to keep your expensive components nice and frosty.

A water-cooling system, on the other hand, employs a series of coolant-filled tubes, a radiator, water blocks (the equivalent of heat sinks), and a couple of other components to keep your PC feeling refreshed. You'll even need a few fans to push around all the water!

Got it? Good. Defining air cooling and liquid cooling is the easy part. The trickier bit is making the decision to use one or the other.

Air cooling

A stock Intel CPU cooler, as installed in a PC: Not too big, but not too impressive.
One of the great joys of using fans to cool your system is that, in a lot of circumstances, you really don’t have to do anything to create a decent cooling setup. If your system’s chassis is of the non-bargain-bin variety, odds are high that its manufacturer has already installed exactly what you need—namely, an intake fan in the front that pushes outside air over your hard drives and an exhaust fan that shoots hot air flying out of the rear of the chassis.

Graphics cards and computer processors pretty much always ship with powerful stock fans—you know, the ones that sound like a plane taking off when they roar into action. Those, combined with case fans, make up the Holy Trifecta of air cooling within a typical desktop PC.

So, the big question remains: Why air? It's cheap, for one thing. Even if you want to go with an aftermarket cooler for your CPU or GPU, you’re going to be paying far less than you would for a liquid cooling setup. The same goes for case fans. You can certainly purchase bigger, better, more efficient fans if you want a quieter rig, or even fans that light up if you’re into that sort of thing. Sure, you'll have to pay for them, but you’ll still spend far less cash upgrading or building a nice air-cooling setup than you will on a typical water-cooling loop.

Also consider the cost to your sanity. It’s a lot easier to use four screws to attach a fan to your case than it is to build your own water cooling setup.

Traditional air cooling has three major downsides, though. First, fans aren't as efficient as water cooling, which can pose a problem with severely overclocked processors or in particularly beefy rigs filled with multiple graphics cards. Second, the heat sinks on powerful CPU coolers can get big. Finally, fans are loud.

Water cooling pros
The act of switching from air to liquid cooling represents a personal milestone in one’s computer-building life.

Let’s start with the pleasant bits. One of the key benefits of a strong liquid cooling setup is that it allows you to cool specific system components to a greater degree than if were you to use fans—not the most applicable setup for someone running a typical stock-clock processor, but one that’s definitely of interest to anyone looking to overclock their chips a bit (or a ton).

Even if you don't tax your rig enough to need a bigger cooling boost, a cheap self-contained water cooling loop—more on those later—can help lower your PC's sound output. Water cooling is much quieter than stuffing your case full of fans.

There's also the issue of space. A huge heat-sink/fan combination might perform well enough, but the best CPU coolers eat up a ton of real estate inside your case. Liquid cooling requires much less space, and it looks a lot niftier to boot. You can't discount the cool factor of a case full of colorful, liquid-filled tubes!

Water cooling cons

One big downside of water cooling is its comparatively high cost, especially if you’re looking to build a custom setup. While most traditional upper-end CPU coolers cost somewhere between $50 and $100, building a liquid-cooling setup can cost far more.

Quality matters in a liquid-cooling setup: You don’t want to buy cheap parts to save a few bucks and end up dousing your pricey PC components in brightly hued coolant.

The homework involved is another drawback. Generating the parts list is going to take a little planning if you're not buying a prepackaged kit. You’ll have to pick up a water block for your CPU that fits its socket, fittings that match your block and tubing size, the tubing itself, a pump, a reservoir, a radiator, a fan (or fans) for the radiator, and the coolant itself. And that’s just a typical setup for the most bare-bones configuration you can build. If you want to power separate loops for your video card, motherboard, RAM, or hard drives, you’ll have to do even more planning and purchasing.

Don't forget to include a way to actually get the coolant in the tubes!
You'll also have to make sure you have room for your setup. Radiators typically require open fan slots on your case. Reservoirs require space in your case as well, and you’ll have to plan out your loop’s layout so that you can actually get it up and running ("priming" the pump, so to speak) when you fill it with coolant. In other words, your water-cooling loop does you no good if you don’t have a good way to get the fluid running around!

Then there’s the installation itself. Simply put, your first adventures in water-cooling land could very well be fraught with peril. Installing loops isn’t exactly newbie-friendly, and the process might be more involved than you’re comfortable with, even if you’ve installed a typical fan-based aftermarket CPU cooler or two.

Which reminds me: Connecting your tubing and fittings in a secure and safe fashion is going to be your number-one issue when building your first water-cooling setup. You will spring a leak in some fashion. You'll want to construct and test your liquid-cooling system outside of your PC to ensure its fortitude before installing it around your expensive electronics. Component manufacturers aren't likely to replace flooded electronics, and the manufacturers of your water cooling parts certainly aren’t going to foot the bill.

Self-contained liquid coolers

Self-contained or "sealed" liquid-cooling kits—preassembled and completely sealed, they start at around just $60—allow you reap the benefits of a simple water-cooling setup without having to deal with any of the messy particulars. You just need to attach a water block to your CPU and a radiator/fan combination to your case, and you’re off to the races, with nary a drop of coolant to worry about. You may lose customization options if you use self-contained kits like Corsair’s Hydro H-series or NZXT's Kraken-series coolers, but you also lose most of the headaches typically associated with do-it-yourself liquid cooling. Leakage is highly unlikely as long as you don't bend or twist the tubing at sharp, weird angles.

Installing a self-contained liquid-cooling kit is about on a par with the difficulty of installing an aftermarket cooler for your CPU. If you need to water-cool only your overclocked processor, a sealed liquid cooler is a compelling option. Stick to DIY loops if you want to liquid-cool more than the single component, however—or if you want the bling factor of clear tubes filled with colorful coolant. Most sealed coolers are opaque.

Conclusion
So, which is better? Air cooling or water cooling? The answer depends on your particular usage needs.

One size does not fit all when it comes to case cooling, but most people can get by with fans alone. It's easy, and it's cheap. If, on the other hand, you’re an enthusiast who needs the best cooling possible for your flaming CPU and a gaggle of graphics cards, a DIY water-cooling setup is in your future. Finally, try a sealed liquid cooler if you're considering liquid cooling either to keep your overclocked processor chilled or simply to benefit from reduced system noise.

Photo: Liquid cooling vs. traditional cooling: What you need to know

Every computer, from the smallest of home theater PCs to the most hulking of gargantuan gaming rigs, generates heat during operation—heat that can kill your PC's precious internals if you're not careful.

While you don't have anything to worry about if you bought your computer from a big-box retailer or straight from a manufacturer like HP, you'll be faced with a potentially crucial decision if you're building (or custom-buying) a fire-breathing, benchmark-eating computer: Should you chill your PC with a traditional air cooling solution or a pricier, yet more efficient liquid-cooling system? That question has many aspects to consider before you can answer it.

Cooling methods explained
The secret to harnessing the cooling power of air lies in fans—lots of fans. Your typical air-cooled PC is packed with case fans, graphics card fans, and a CPU fan or two—positioned atop a big metal heat sink—to keep your expensive components nice and frosty.

A water-cooling system, on the other hand, employs a series of coolant-filled tubes, a radiator, water blocks (the equivalent of heat sinks), and a couple of other components to keep your PC feeling refreshed. You'll even need a few fans to push around all the water! 

Got it? Good. Defining air cooling and liquid cooling is the easy part. The trickier bit is making the decision to use one or the other.

Air cooling

A stock Intel CPU cooler, as installed in a PC: Not too big, but not too impressive.
One of the great joys of using fans to cool your system is that, in a lot of circumstances, you really don’t have to do anything to create a decent cooling setup. If your system’s chassis is of the non-bargain-bin variety, odds are high that its manufacturer has already installed exactly what you need—namely, an intake fan in the front that pushes outside air over your hard drives and an exhaust fan that shoots hot air flying out of the rear of the chassis.

Graphics cards and computer processors pretty much always ship with powerful stock fans—you know, the ones that sound like a plane taking off when they roar into action. Those, combined with case fans, make up the Holy Trifecta of air cooling within a typical desktop PC.

So, the big question remains: Why air? It's cheap, for one thing. Even if you want to go with an aftermarket cooler for your CPU or GPU, you’re going to be paying far less than you would for a liquid cooling setup. The same goes for case fans. You can certainly purchase bigger, better, more efficient fans if you want a quieter rig, or even fans that light up if you’re into that sort of thing. Sure, you'll have to pay for them, but you’ll still spend far less cash upgrading or building a nice air-cooling setup than you will on a typical water-cooling loop.

Also consider the cost to your sanity. It’s a lot easier to use four screws to attach a fan to your case than it is to build your own water cooling setup.

Traditional air cooling has three major downsides, though. First, fans aren't as efficient as water cooling, which can pose a problem with severely overclocked processors or in particularly beefy rigs filled with multiple graphics cards. Second, the heat sinks on powerful CPU coolers can get big. Finally, fans are loud.

Water cooling pros
The act of switching from air to liquid cooling represents a personal milestone in one’s computer-building life. 

Let’s start with the pleasant bits. One of the key benefits of a strong liquid cooling setup is that it allows you to cool specific system components to a greater degree than if were you to use fans—not the most applicable setup for someone running a typical stock-clock processor, but one that’s definitely of interest to anyone looking to overclock their chips a bit (or a ton).

Even if you don't tax your rig enough to need a bigger cooling boost, a cheap self-contained water cooling loop—more on those later—can help lower your PC's sound output. Water cooling is much quieter than stuffing your case full of fans.

There's also the issue of space. A huge heat-sink/fan combination might perform well enough, but the best CPU coolers eat up a ton of real estate inside your case. Liquid cooling requires much less space, and it looks a lot niftier to boot. You can't discount the cool factor of a case full of colorful, liquid-filled tubes!

Water cooling cons

One big downside of water cooling is its comparatively high cost, especially if you’re looking to build a custom setup. While most traditional upper-end CPU coolers cost somewhere between $50 and $100, building a liquid-cooling setup can cost far more.

Quality matters in a liquid-cooling setup: You don’t want to buy cheap parts to save a few bucks and end up dousing your pricey PC components in brightly hued coolant.

The homework involved is another drawback. Generating the parts list is going to take a little planning if you're not buying a prepackaged kit. You’ll have to pick up a water block for your CPU that fits its socket, fittings that match your block and tubing size, the tubing itself, a pump, a reservoir, a radiator, a fan (or fans) for the radiator, and the coolant itself. And that’s just a typical setup for the most bare-bones configuration you can build. If you want to power separate loops for your video card, motherboard, RAM, or hard drives, you’ll have to do even more planning and purchasing.

Don't forget to include a way to actually get the coolant in the tubes!
You'll also have to make sure you have room for your setup. Radiators typically require open fan slots on your case. Reservoirs require space in your case as well, and you’ll have to plan out your loop’s layout so that you can actually get it up and running ("priming" the pump, so to speak) when you fill it with coolant. In other words, your water-cooling loop does you no good if you don’t have a good way to get the fluid running around!

Then there’s the installation itself. Simply put, your first adventures in water-cooling land could very well be fraught with peril. Installing loops isn’t exactly newbie-friendly, and the process might be more involved than you’re comfortable with, even if you’ve installed a typical fan-based aftermarket CPU cooler or two.

Which reminds me: Connecting your tubing and fittings in a secure and safe fashion is going to be your number-one issue when building your first water-cooling setup. You will spring a leak in some fashion. You'll want to construct and test your liquid-cooling system outside of your PC to ensure its fortitude before installing it around your expensive electronics. Component manufacturers aren't likely to replace flooded electronics, and the manufacturers of your water cooling parts certainly aren’t going to foot the bill.

Self-contained liquid coolers

Self-contained or "sealed" liquid-cooling kits—preassembled and completely sealed, they start at around just $60—allow you reap the benefits of a simple water-cooling setup without having to deal with any of the messy particulars. You just need to attach a water block to your CPU and a radiator/fan combination to your case, and you’re off to the races, with nary a drop of coolant to worry about. You may lose customization options if you use self-contained kits like Corsair’s Hydro H-series or NZXT's Kraken-series coolers, but you also lose most of the headaches typically associated with do-it-yourself liquid cooling. Leakage is highly unlikely as long as you don't bend or twist the tubing at sharp, weird angles.

Installing a self-contained liquid-cooling kit is about on a par with the difficulty of installing an aftermarket cooler for your CPU. If you need to water-cool only your overclocked processor, a sealed liquid cooler is a compelling option. Stick to DIY loops if you want to liquid-cool more than the single component, however—or if you want the bling factor of clear tubes filled with colorful coolant. Most sealed coolers are opaque.

Conclusion
So, which is better? Air cooling or water cooling? The answer depends on your particular usage needs.

One size does not fit all when it comes to case cooling, but most people can get by with fans alone. It's easy, and it's cheap. If, on the other hand, you’re an enthusiast who needs the best cooling possible for your flaming CPU and a gaggle of graphics cards, a DIY water-cooling setup is in your future. Finally, try a sealed liquid cooler if you're considering liquid cooling either to keep your overclocked processor chilled or simply to benefit from reduced system noise.


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